So my wife and I traveled to Hawaii (yes, again, twice in one year, life’s good :) from Oct. 20-Oct. 28. I’ll recreate the trip in this message chronologically:
Saturday Oct. 20 – flew out of San Jose to Honolulu, then a twin-prop to the small airport in Moloka’i. We picked up our rental car and drove down to the Moloka’i Ranch to check in and have a bite to eat. The ranch sits atop a hill that slopes down gradually to the ocean, a hillside covered with the ubiquitous mesquite and a smattering of cows and horses. An afternoon snack of soup and burger (yeah, we broke our boycott of beef over the trip; when in Rome [where cattle is king], eat as the Romans eat) and we drove the long dirt road to the beach village where we were staying until Tuesday.
The beach village is a number of tent/bungalows (called “tent-alows”) with a pair of tents and a bathroom on a platform (bathroom=shower, sink, and commode in an enclosure but open to the sky.) So my wife and I stayed in #32, about 200′ from the beach and the main building of the beach village.
Let me summarize the whole experience up front; Moloka’i Ranch Beach Village really really reminded me of camp:
- The food was good but not great.
- The accommodations were a step or two better than a camp cottage; everything was well kept but you step out of the shower onto painted wood, for an example.
- The place was very isolated (mostly good, night skies were amazing for star-gazing)
- The bugs were everywhere; flies and bees during the day, moths and roaches (ew) at night.
We had neighbors who stayed up late and were loud (not too late, but loud!) their first night. The second night on, I think the “getting woken up by the birds at dawn” cured them of this behavior.
- Security and privacy is limited. (I’m ok with that, note that it’s less private than KVR but fewer people around.)
- The solar water heater and solar-powered lights were nice and minimalistic, but meant morning showers were a bit chilly. I’m a morning showering person, at minimum, but I got by.
We ate dinner at the village; a buffet of various fruits and veggies; chicken, fish, and prime rib. I really enjoyed the fish and chicken and sides, my wife was less impressed than I. The bugs really got to me after a while; I suspect it was due to a combination of being on a ranch, the local cats eating all of the lizards/geckos that would normally keep bugs under control, and some sanitation issues–not much staff (a couple staffers) to clean up after diners ate, no way for diners to “bus their own dishes”, and at least one trash can left uncovered draws in the pests. But we solved this mostly by choosing to dine elsewhere for the bulk of our stay.
Sunday, Oct. 21 – Today was our big “drive around the island and check everything out” day, which was a great deal of fun.
Lunch was at probably the only pizza joint in town, and they had many non-pizza options. I had fish and my wife had prime rib (yeah, again). Was good food and an easy-going restaurant with nice staff.
We then drove out to the end of highway 450 which terminated within walking distance of Halawa Bay. The drive was scary, but I’m used to driving up to Mount Hamilton (east of San Jose) so the one-lane-road-with-blind-corners is not unfamiliar to me. The scenery was amazing, the mosquitoes ravenous (I must have killed at least 50.)
Snorkeled on the way back at Murphy Beach near mile marker 20 on hwy 450. The snorkeling was good, but the water was very shallow and I scraped my knee a bit. I bought a snorkeling mask with custom lenses from Deep Blue Gear as I have astigmatism, which prevents me from seeing clearly and causing an uneasy feeling as I move about. I suppose I could have tried out contact lenses, but I really don’t like the idea of sticking something in my eye. The mask was made exactly to my prescription, and boy they are the best for seeing the fish and coral (Murphy Beach had lots of live coral to see very close.) Unluckily, I lost our de-fogging gel right off the bat, but using god’s-given defogger (spit) worked out well enough to survive.
Dinner was at a “fast-food” restaurant serving Hawaiian fast food. I had a teriyaki pork sandwich and wife had fried fish. Inexpensive and reasonable food to wrap up the day.
Monday, Oct. 22 – Morning started out with snorkeling at the beach village, which was very nice and relaxing. Only person on the beach and in the water, fish were easy-going. Often the beach by the village had choppy water, so I lucked out this morning. The night before was punctuated by many many shooting stars; the wife counted 13. Afternoon, we headed to Kameula’s Cookhouse for lunch (very good, wish they were open Monday for dinner) and to drive on 470 and 480, the two other highways. I would have been up for a boat ride or mule ride to the leper colony on the north shore, but the wife passed on both options. Perhaps next time? The view from the top was very nice. Kept running into other folks from the beach village. I guess that’s to be expected on such a low-tourism island.
Also ran across the Post-a-Nut post office and we mailed off a coconut to our 92-year-old grandfather(-in-law, for me). He’s really cool and enjoys a good joke, so we wrote “nuts to you” on it and doodled a doodle he often does on cards he sends to his grand-daughter. The postman was very very nice and had some good advice and suggestions. I wish he worked on commission.
Dinner was at the ranch’s lodge and was amazing, we dined when the place opened and it was empty the entire time. The food was very very good and we wished we ate there more. The food was far better than that at the beach and we didn’t pay more, although we mostly supped on appetizers and dessert (wow the bananas foster was huge, glad we left room!) Then we stumbled to our tentalows for sleep.
Tuesday, Oct. 23 – Spent most of the day traveling from Moloka’i to Hawaii (the big island) and wishing we had eaten something for breakfast. Didn’t get food until we arrived at Kona Village. I was a tiny bit surprised that they didn’t have a shuttle or something, but a cab only costs ~$30 each way, not too bad.
Returning to the village was an emotional experience for me, it felt like returning home. Everything familiar, and after spending a day in the hustle-and-bustle of airports it was nice to end up in the relaxing and pampering environment of the village. Tuesday night is also Paniolo night, where the Hawaiian cowboy food and music reigns. Yum yum yum, I really enjoyed Hawaiian dried beef (reminded me greatly of Chinese “bbq” pork.) I also got in a bit of snorkeling right there on the beach before sundown, and I was amazed at how many more fish there were at KVR than on Moloka’i. I don’t know if it’s ’cause they feed their fish or something (doubt that) cause it was crazy with fish.
Wednesday, Oct. 24 – Chartered a snorkeling outing for Thursday, ate, relaxed, ate some more. Enjoyed not going to the luau, we felt luau’d out after the last trip and we enjoyed the calm and quiet. Got some morning snorkeling in with the wife.
Thursday, Oct. 25 – Took the chartered snorkeling tour with “Roy” on the “Protector” (one of those inflatable motorboats, two motors == fast!) He took us both to a white sand beach to the south and a black sand beach to the north. At each beach, we jumped out and snorkeled for a good hour. The water was deeper (~15′) than KVR’s bay (~5′) so lots more fish to see, but nothing out of the ordinary. Still, the water was very very clear, particularly at the white sand beach, so it was almost like flying over a landscape of bright corals and other “flying” fish below us. Roy was cool and filled us in on some of the local history and gave us some suggestions. Day was otherwise uneventful but enjoyable and relaxing. Also checked out their interesting petroglyph grounds; lots of sails and interesting 18th and 19th century petroglyphs. Many not found anywhere else on the islands.
Friday, Oct. 26 – We made the mistake of renting a car to go to the volcano. It was a mistake only in that it is ~3 hours each way, so we spent 6 hours driving and 3 hours at the volcano. We explored the Thurston lava tube (including the un-lit section, using some LED flashlights KVR gave us) and had a blast. Met the brother of a neighbor at the volcano lodge, what’s the odds of that? No snorkeling all day.
Saturday, Oct. 27 – Relaxing at the hale, on the beach, in the water. Paul, one of the beach shack employees, led a canoe trip to the edge of the reef and we spent 45 minutes out there looking at lots of stuff. I got a good look at an eel or three, and an octopus playing around with a goat fish in the sand about 15′ down! Amazing, and we got probably a solid 15 minutes of viewing the two interacting in full-sight. Octopus are generally nocturnal, notoriously shy, and fairly rare to see during the day. Other fish of particular interest to me were the (prolific) 2′ cornetfish (long, narrow bodies with the back-half moving like a snake; their large eyes stare at you inquisitively and you can interact with them when they’re close), 3″ needlefish (tiny little guys that were schooling in the waves near the shore) and moray eels (both free-swimming and at least one <5′ from me, eek!) Lots of other cool fish, some schooling, some swimming around rocks, some swimming from point A to B. Paul was very helpful both on the canoe trip and back at the shack, showing interest and giving hints. (So helpful I felt I had to leave a note and a nice tip with him before I left.)
Sunday, Oct. 28 – Thought we had all morning to get one more snorkeling session in and to get breakfast, only to realize that our flight was 9:30am. Rushed to the airport only to wait for a good hour inside security. Better early than late, I suppose. Flight back was uneventful, but I found the Honolulu airport nicer than I remember. The “outdoor” section had some interesting features including a view of a very nice Japanese garden. I really dug being ~20′ from the nose of a JAL 747 with nothing between me and the plane but a railing.
Overall, the trip was very nice and we will hopefully return sooner rather than later, depending on what sorts of deals we come across. We hope to also return to Yellowstone (last trip was Oct. 2001) and perhaps go to the Florida Keys for some relaxation and more snorkeling, but KVR is going to be a regular visit for us.
KVR is such an interesting, history-rich place, whether it’s the shipwreck bar (fashioned from the owner’s ship that wrecked on the reef a bit south of the bar’s location) to the employees like Sid, the bartender, who has been working at KVR for 35 years. The employees made a career in working at the resort and they take real pride in their work and their professionalism is matched with their enthusiasm. It’s also a place to go and to stay all day, all week. Whether it’s for serious relaxation or for some beach activities, it’s a place best experienced on its own without trying to go do other things at the same time.